Tips

Below you may now view some of the entries we received in our monthly competition last year.

It's amazing how different and stunning everyones lay-outs are even though they are required to all use the same paper in the competition.

It’s time to get organised!!

It will be very time-saving if you take some time to organise your photos and supplies. One way which has proved to be very useful is to sort your photos into themes and then into pages or better double page spreads. Then decide which papers look best with the photos and suit the mood of the scene. Try to think of a heading for the page which you should write on a sheet of paper along with any points or comments that you want to remember to include with the journaling, and then place all of this inside a separate album (your planning album). If you don't have an extra album, then just use the page protectors on their own.

When you have time to do some scrapbooking, simply choose one of the prepared pages and put it all together. The system is great for Crops away from home as well; you don't have to drag along everything you own just in case it’s needed. This system also makes shopping for papers and other supplies much easier because you’ve already grouped your photos and decided on the theme for the page so you’ll have a better idea of what you’re looking for when it comes to choosing the colours and papers to best compliment your photos. Last but not the least, always remember to carefully choose your photos as they are the stars of the page, not the trimmings. Above all Scrapbooking should be lots of FUN and getting as organised as possible increases the fun and enables you to accomplish more completed pages to enjoy.

Smudge-free Journaling
To prevent smears, smudges and damage to your photos and accents if you are journaling directly onto your scrapbook page, simply place a clean piece of paper or your lens-cleaning cloth over the areas you want to protect.

Scrapping Time
Finding it more and more difficult to scrapbook at home? If you don’t feel like attending a girls night out at our local scrapbook store, try the library! Find a quiet table in a corner and crop while your younger son can work on his ABC album or do his homework!!

THE SCRAPBOOK COMPANY also offers crop sessions @ R30 for THREE hours- just phone to book your time and seat !!

Fast crinkled paper
Love the look of crinkled paper but way too impatient to wait for it to flatten under a heavy book? Save time by ironing the piece of paper. It works better, still has the crinkled look and most importantly takes less time!

Organizing die-cuts
Use a recipe file box with tabbed cards. Put the die-cuts behind the correct tab and find what you need quickly!

Gathering ideas
Keep a small scrapbook idea book in your car and handbag. While waiting in-line at the supermarket or bank or robot- pull out your idea-book. You’ll constantly be gaining fresh ideas for later.

Techniques- These are some of Marlizes Beginners pages from 2001 !!- amazing just how fast scrapbooking has progressed hey?

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Overlapping (click on picture to enlarge)

If you don’t have enough room on your page for all your letters simply try overlapping them slightly. Trace each letter, slightly overlapping them on the wrong side of the paper you’re using then cut them out as one piece and paste it directly onto your project or onto a coordinating shade of cardstock. Here eyelets were used to show the middle of the b, a and e.

Tear (click on picture to enlarge)

Tearing instead of cutting is fun! You can handtear paper to create interesting textures then layer a few torn strips of paper on top of your base colour and glue in place. You can then either trace and cut your letters from this paper or you can trace the letters onto paper and carefully tear out the entire letter. It takes no time to master and is really therapeutic. Hold the paper firmly and tear towards your body for the best control. You should tear slowly for a ragged edge and in one long movement if you want an “even” edge. For heavy paper such as Mulberry you can try the next trick. Dip a cotton bud in a bit of water and make a line where you want to tear. Simply tear along the moistened line. Looks great for Beach and desert pages!

Family Tree- click to enlarge

There isnt any specific technique used here- its just such a lovely page that i thought of including it- copy it! - enough photo space in the apples for 16 photos !!

Strings and Things (click on picture to enlarge)

Twine, raffia, jute, twistel, thread, hemp cord (Irie!), ribbons, string, embroidery floss: anything you can use to tie, wrap or keep things closed can be used to decorate a page or card. Free spirited designs can be made taking advantage of the fluid lines you get. It makes perfect bows and ties on tags and weaving through the bottom of your background paper. Raffia adds a bit of texture and a wide variety of colours are usually available. If you haven’t got a Xyron then Heramadots and wonder tape provides another adhesive option. Springbokke!!!!!

Wire Workings (click on picture to enlarge)

Wire comes in a variety of colours and gauges- the smaller the gauge number, the thicker the wire. It’s perfect for funky accents- Several small spirals were used here by twisting the wire around a lollipop stick or simply around a pen for bigger spirals. Needle nose pliers and jewellery jigs may also be used to create this neat wire look. Always leave a bit extra end on the wire, and then poke a small hole where you want it to end and slide the extra end through the hole, folding it flat against the back of the layout. This should suffice for smaller wire accents but if you are using larger ones, then rather secure the wire at several points by folding small “V” shapes and poke it through a small hole in the layout, fold one leg over the side of the wire. Finish off, by folding the ends of the “V” behind the layout.

Colourblocking- (click on pic to enlarge)

The easiest route to take would be to use a Deluxe colourblocking template (a stencil with different size blocks) - If you're using the colourblocking template, position your photos in the template and trim to size. If you dont have the template, simply position your photos on top of your cardstock and trim them to the desired size with scissors. Now fill some of the empty blocks with contrasting colours of cardstock, cut to a slightly smaller size as the block.

You can use scissors but you ideally need a 12' photo trimmer such as Fiskars or the NEW EK Success Cutterpede trimmer (we stock the new trimmer and its refill blades and cutting channel mats) You can now add your journaling in some of the other blocks. Add your heading in the big block at the top of the page. Now you can embellish the blocks by adding brads, tags, eyelets, ribbon..... anything your heart desires.

Easy Embossing (click on picture to enlarge)

Embossing is another great way to utilize your templates. You can create elegant lettering and patterns using vellum or cardstock that you can fill in with watercolours, pencils, chalks etc. When embossing, letters and patterns should appear backwards while working. When flipped, the embossed design will read correctly. To maximize the raised effect and sharpen edges, first emboss with a large ball burnishing tip of stylus. Next, you can use a small ball burnishing tip and retrace one or more times untill the desired look is achieved. The Fiskars Shape Boss is the ultimate embossing system all-in-one.

Do a little shakin' (click on picture to enlarge)

This was really a lotta fun ! This was Reinhard’s 2nd hair-cut in two-an-a-half years!
Shaker boxes were used to show his lock of hair, tiny scissors, a mirror and comb. They may seem difficult but aren’t if you follow these simple steps:
- Cut your shaker box frame from cardstock in the desired shape. Start with something simple, like a square or rectangle. Cut your desired window with a coluzzle or punch the shape out. Also start with smaller sizes like for example a square of 6x6 cm. Lay this down on the table with the backside up.
- Cut a piece of page protector slightly smaller than the frame.
- Glue the protector piece to the back of the frame.
- Now cut a piece of background paper slightly smaller than the frame and set aside.
- Cut some mounting tape, preferably Scotch brand two-way tape so you end up with four thin pieces to stick on the frame edges.
- Now add your shaker ingredients like beadazzles, glass micro beads and even confetti.
- Carefully remove the liner from the tape and stick your background on the back.
Soon more about Tags, Buttons and Pop-ups

GLOSSARY

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Acid Free
Acid is used in paper manufacturing to break apart the wood fibres and the lignin which holds them together. If acid remains in the materials used for memory albums and pages, the acid can react chemically with photographs and accelerate their deterioration. Over time, acid breaks the paper fibres down, causing the paper to deteriorate and become brown and brittle. Acid-free products have a pH factor of 7.0 or above. It's imperative that all materials (glue, pens, paper, etc.) used in memory albums or scrapbooks be acid-free.

Acid Migration
is the transfer of acidity from one item to another through physical contact or acidic vapours. If a newspaper clipping were put into an album, the area it touched would turn yellow or brown. A de-acidification spray can be used on acidic papers, or they can be colour photocopied onto acid-free papers.

Acidic
A term used when something contains acid or has a pH level lower than 7.0.

Alkaline
a term used when something contains alkali or has a pH level of more than 7.0. It is the opposite of acidic. In paper products, an alkaline substance is added to the pulp during the manufacturing process, which gives permanence and durability. See Buffered Paper.

Archival
Originally the term "archival" meant that a material or product is permanent, durable or chemically stable and that it can therefore be used safely for preservation purposes. No standards exist that describe how long an "archival" product will last. (This term is usually used improperly in the scrapbook industry.)

Archival Quality
is a term used to indicate materials which have undergone laboratory analysis to determine that their acidic and buffered content is within safe levels.
Bond (or Writing) Paper
A light-weight paper (20 pound) formerly known as typewriter paper. Generally used for journals, histories, genealogy, letters, and in computer printers and copy machines.

Buffer
An alkaline substance—generally calcium carbonate (CaCO3)—added to the paper to make it acid free.

Buffered Paper
During manufacture a buffering agent such as calcium carbonate or magnesium bicarbonate can be added to paper to neutralise acid contaminants. Such papers have a pH of 8.5, which makes the paper acid free. It also increases the smoothness of the paper surface, improves brightness and opacity, and helps prevent ink from feathering.

Cardstock (cover paper)
A general term for heavier papers commonly used for the covers of catalogues and brochures, and frequently used in scrapbooking. The correct term for heavier-weight paper is cover paper.

Coated Paper
A paper with a finishing layer on one or both sides of the core sheet.

Colourfast
A pigment or dye that is resistant to environmental exposure, such as light, acid, heat and other atmospheric conditions.

Cover Paper
A heavier paper that adds some stability to photographs without adding bulk to your book. See cardstock.

Cropping
Altering the boundaries of a finished photograph by trimming or masking the photograph.

Deacidification
An alkaline-salt process that raises the pH level in paper. It impregnates the paper with a high alkaline reserve and neutralises existing acids while preventing the development of future acids.

Hand tinting
The process of applying colours with oils or dyes to the surface of a black-and-white photograph, giving it the appearance of a coloured photograph.

Lamination
The permanent bonding of two layers of plastic film to one or two sides of a flat item. This process is done by applying high heat and/or pressure (which makes it irreversible) and is not recommended for valuable items.

Lightfast
A term describing a material not affected or faded by sunlight, fluorescent tubes and light bulbs.

Lignin
The substance that gives plants and trees their strength and rigidity, and also binds wood fibres together. When wood is broken down to make paper, the lignin becomes unstable. Paper that contains large amounts of lignin, such as newsprint, is very acidic and will turn yellow when exposed to light and humidity.

Lignin Free
To be considered lignin free, paper can contain a maximum of one percent lignin.

Neutral pH
The centre reading of 7.0 on the pH scale of 0-14. It is neither acidic nor alkaline. For manufacturers, the acceptable pH neutral range is from 6.5-7.5.

Non-bleeding
A term that describes an ink that does not spread from the original mark on the paper's surface. Non-bleeding depends on both the degree of sizing in the paper and the use of solvents (other than water) in ink.

Odourless
Having no odour. An odour may be a sign of a chemical breakdown. The emitted gas will speed up the deterioration of stored materials; therefore, most products used in preservation should be odourless. Note: The one exception is inks that use preservatives with a slight odour.

Opaque
Any substance or surface that will not allow any light to pass through.

pH Factor
refers to the acidity of a paper. The pH scale is the standard for measurement of acidity and alkalinity. It runs from 0 to 14 with each number representing a ten-fold increase; pH neutral is 7. Acid-free products have a pH factor from 7 or above. Special pH tester pens are available to help you determine the acidity or alkalinity of products.

Photo-safe
is a term similar to archival quality but more specific to materials used with photographs. Acid-free is the determining factor for a product to be labelled photo-safe.

Pigment
A dry, powdery agent that possesses colour. A pigment will not adhere to a surface, so a binder is required to unite the pigment to paper. A pigment does not dissolve in liquid and does not fade when exposed to light.

Polyethylene
A flexible, chemically stable, naturally slippery plastic with little tendency to cling. It is normally manufactured without anti-block and slip agents. Polyethylene is used primarily in the manufacturing of photographic sleeves and poly bags.

Polypropylene
A clear, pliable, chemically stable plastic used in the manufacturing of photographic sleeves.

Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA)
A plastic with properties that cause photographs and documents to deteriorate and fade. Note: The pH-neutral glue called "PVA," which is commonly used for book binding and box making, is not suitable for use with photographs.

Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC)
An unstable plastic, generally called "vinyl," that may exude oily plasticizers or emit corrosive and acidic hydrogen-chloride gas. It is easily identified by its strong plastic odour. Do not use sheet protectors, photo enclosures, corners or any other product made from vinyl with your photographs, negatives and memorabilia.

Red Eye
The bright pink or red colour that can appear in the pupils of people or animals pictured in a photo when a flash is used.

Sheet Protectors
These are made of polypropylene and slip over a finished album page. They can be side-loading or top-loading and fit 8 1/2" x 11" or 12" x 12" pages. It is important that they be acid free and pvc-free. Use those specifically labelled photo-safe or archival quality.

Text Paper
A general term for light-weight papers—commonly used for stationery. Text paper is an uncoated printing paper of unusually high quality, available in a wide range of finishes and colours.

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